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Muscle Car Toy Build

Well I’m sure the readers are glad that I am coming to the conclusion of this build. The journey was interesting to say the least and gave me the opportunity to use detailing tricks and techniques that I have not used for some years. I really enjoyed the build. Let’s fire away!

Body
After the body received its final polish and wax, using my favourite model wax called “The Last Detail”, I fitted the one piece window assembly to the headliner using Sellotape brand double sided tape. This method allows you to fit the glass accurately and securely while still giving you the option of removing it at a later stage without breaking anything. The assembled interior was also secured to the inside of the body using the locating pin on the inside of the body shell and small squares of double sided tape. At this stage, the brake booster, radiator and battery were also fitted to the engine bay using 5 minute epoxy and put aside to harden. Finally, I added the rear lights and light surround and bumper as well as the front bumper using epoxy as well.

Chassis
As the wheels were a bit of a loose fit inside the tyres, I put a few drops of 5 minute epoxy on the inside surface of the tyre where it mates with the wheel, in order to have a secure fitting tyre. After the epoxy hardened, I fitted the wheels to the axles using 5 minute epoxy as well. This method allows you time to position the wheels so as to perfectly align them before the glue hardens. I used little steel blocks positioned against the outsides of the wheels to keep them in alignment while the epoxy hardened.

Getting it all together
Following the kit instructions, I slipped the completed chassis into the body. Due to the curvature of the
body sides, this process was not just as simple as just “slipping” in the chassis as the inner fenders jammed against the body sides, preventing an easy insertion. By slipping a small steel ruler in-between the body and chassis sides, I pried the body open ever so gently while pushing on the sides of the chassis and the chassis securely snapped into place.

Once this was accomplished, I fitted the reverse lights into the rear valance, after painting the chrome lenses in Tamiya pearl white to simulate the semi translucent items on the rear car. I also fitted the chrome filler cap in the black panel between the rear lights after giving it a thin black wash to accent the moulded-in detail. At the front, I glued in the grill and light assembly and I detailed the moulded-in indicator lights in the front valance by first painting them with a pearl white base coat and then applying a few coats of clear orange.

After hooking up the battery cables to the body (earth) and starter (positive), the heater hoses to the firewall and the vacuum hose to the brake booster, I glued the fender to firewall brace into place using superglue. I fitted the bonnet and lastly I stripped the chrome from the front and rear number plate holders and painted them satin black. After the paint had dried, I applied some Illinois “BOSS 302” vanity number plate decals. I gave the number plates a coat of satin varnish to tone down the high gloss finish of the decals and fitted them to the body, again using double sided tape.

As you read this article, the SANNL was held 2 months ago. At the NNL my work on the Mustang paid off as I won the award for best early factory stock car! I want to take the opportunity to wish all the readers of my column a happy festive season and December holidays. I will see you all in the February 2014 issue again where I will be reviewing some new plastic from the USA as well as the first in a series of articles featuring the models of some of the hottest model builders in the country!